My Kedah Travel Companions (Camera Phone Photo):
My Silat Kuntau Tekpi Instructor - Cikgu Lan - at Kedah Roadside Cafe (Camera Phone Photo):
Omar at Kedah Roadside Cafe - Christmas Morning (camera Phone Photo):
View from Kedah Roadside Cafe (camera Phone Photo):
We left for Cikgu Sani’s house and got there shortly after breakfast. Some of his relatives were at his house and answered the door, but Cikgu Sani was not there. It ends up that he had left the day before to accompany some of his relatives to the airport. Those relatives were leaving to perform their Hajj (Pilgrimage to Mecca).
We were invited into Cikgu Sani’s house. We made ourselves comfortable in his front room and we all dozed off to sleep. Cikgu Sani arrived at his house around 10 am. He apologized for the miscommunication regarding our arrival time and for not being there to greet us when we arrived.
Cikgu Sani is a fascinating man. He is much more soft-spoken than I expected. He knew of me from my teacher Cikgu Lan, and he knew that I had come to Kedah to seek his permission to teach and to commercialize Silat Kuntau Tekpi. We quickly got down to business. I explained my overall plan and approach to him. Cikgu Sani listened and asked a few questions.
When I was done presenting my plan, Cikgu Sani went quiet. There was an awkward silence for what felt like several minutes. Finally, Cikgu Sani spoke. He approved of my plan and agreed to allow me to promote Silat Kuntau Tekpi outside of Malaysia. I was blown away by his decision. Cikgu Sani then told me that he had been waiting for someone to approach him with such a request. Apparently, the idea of promoting this Silat worldwide has been a longtime dream of his… He then said that I had his full blessing and support to pursue my plan.
As our meeting was wrapping up, Cikgu Sani asked me to change into my Silat uniform. When I asked him why, he told me that he was going to perform music at a wedding at noon, and that he wanted me to demonstrate my Silat at the wedding. I was shocked and more than a little nervous. It’s a tradition to have people perform Silat at Malay weddings, but I didn’t feel ready to show my meager stuff to a sophisticated audience of Malays at a Kedah wedding!
So I changed into my Silat uniform and we headed to the wedding. Everyone sat down to a large outdoor wedding buffet, but I couldn’t eat a bite. I was still woozy from not having slept the night before and I had huge butterflies from the thought of my impending performance. As lunch wound down, Cikgu Sani and his “band” set up their instruments and began to play. Cikgu Sani is a fantastic musician! Luckily, I captured some of their performance on videotape.
Anyway, one by one, different Silat practitioners got up and performed to the music in front of a crowd of about 80 or so wedding guests. A Sumatran system called Silat Garuda (Phoenix Silat) had a total of about six or seven students who got up and performed. I was so fascinated by their movements that I almost forgot that I was to get up soon. Then Cikgu Sani’s youngest son (16 years old) got up and did a great form with the double Tekpi. When he was done, everyone then looked at me.
I was up.
I just then realized that I was the last one to get up.
The main event…
Gulp…
So I stepped out onto the Persian rug that was thrown down on top of the gravel and grass in the groom’s front yard and waited for the music to begin.
And then - I just moved.
It was the weirdest experience. I had Silat movements come out from so many different sources: Leo Gaje, Herman Suwanda, Dan Inosanto, Lok 9, Kuntau Tekpi, Cekak, Kalimah…
I just listened to the music and moved with no plan. I still have no idea what I did. When it was over, everyone gave me an enthusiastic round of applause, but I have a feeling that it was more about seeing a foreigner doing something that vaguely resembled Silat then about the performance itself. I had someone videotape me, but that tape will never see the light of day… ☺
Cikgu Sani was very congratulatory and thanked me for participating in the wedding. Someone later told me that he was actually proud of me and pleased with my performance. I’m glad if that’s true.
After the wedding (around 3 or 4 pm), we headed back to Cikgu Sani’s house. Cikgu Sani’s son then offered to give me a tour of Baling on his motor scooter. I agreed, grabbed my video camera, and off we went.
Baling is a very cool place. Laid back. Full of coconut trees and streams and sprawling rice fields. The Thai border (a range of hills on the horizon) look close enough to touch. In Kedah, they traditionally measure time in “pots of rice”, meaning how far you can walk in the time that it takes one pot of rice to cook. They told me that the Thai border was 3 or 4 pots of rice away…
Very interesting…
After my tour, we returned to the house. I was told to relax for a while and then prepare to go out for dinner.
Among other things, Cikgu Sani is a healer who uses traditional Malay methods. He recently helped an old woman (in Baling) recover from a serious illness. The old woman’s son had invited us all over for dinner at his house to celebrate here recovery and to publicly thank Cikgu Sani.
I was beginning to feel like Alice in Wonderland.
Go here. Eat this.
Go there. Eat that.
I never knew what was going to happen next. Being almost 24 hours without sleep wasn’t helping things any…
So we went to dinner. The house was very remote. It was only 20 or so minutes away, but it was down a winding dirt road that few 4WD vehicles could have navigated, since the trees were so close to the dirt road. When we arrive at the house, it was like we had stepped back in time.
It was a long house on stilts. It was a traditional Malay house. I had seen pictures of them, but had never actually seen one up close. They are made up of only one long room that’s separated by many curtains, but no interior walls. They’re on stills to help them survive the flooding that comes with rice farming techniques.
And I saw around the house “papan sakaping” (or “one thin plank”) – wooden pathways that are put in place so that you can walk from place to place when the ground is flooded. This was eye-opening, since my Silat Kalimah training keeps emphasizing papan sakaping in its footwork. There are no sidesteps in the footwork (that would cause you to fall off of the plank) – just walking forward, stepping straight back and pivoting. Silat Kalimah is also from Kedah, so I was seeing before my very eyes one of the key forces on the development of this form of Silat. Very cool…
So we went into the long house. There were about 50 or 60 people inside. The women were on one side of the house and the men were on the other side. There was no furniture at all. We all sat on the floor along the walls and in small groups.
The evening began with the local Imam (prayer leader) reciting one of the longer chapters of the Qu’ran (from memory). After he was done, he led the group in something called Zikker (or “Remembrance”), a form of Sufi chanting where one of God’s names or attributes is rhythmically chanted over and over. I have done Zikker before, but never in such a large group. It was hypnotic. We chanted for about 20 or 30 minutes (the time just flew by).
As the Imam wrapped up, the old woman’s son stood up and gave a moving speech (in Malay) thanking Cikgu Sani for all that he had done for his mother. There wasn’t a dry eye in the room.
And then the food came. And came. And came. It was a huge feast. It took me a minute to realize that I was going to have to eat my food the traditional Malay way (with my bare hands), but I quickly got with the program.
Women Beginning to Serve Dinner in Long House (Camera Phone Photo):
The meal was delicious, with the specialty being cooked bamboo tree – a Kedah delicacy!
We wrapped up the lovely evening and arrive back at Cikgu Sani’s home about 10 or 11 pm – just as a small caravan of vehicles was pulling up.
It was Cikgu Sani’s oldest son and about 40 of his Silat students who decided - spontaneously – to drive up to Kedah from Port Dickson (on the West coast of Malaysia) for Christmas.
Alice in Wonderland…
So for about an hour or so, the place was a zoo. There were maybe 50 people or so milling around in front of Cikgu Sani’s house - talking, smoking cigarettes and drinking tea.
Cikgu Sani then came up to me and my travel partners and said that he was going to go somewhere with the Port Dickson group and that he’d be back soon.
So as suddenly as the hoard had descended on us, they were all gone. You could actually hear the crickets.
I sat down with my friends and we drank tea and told tall Silat tales for a while.
Two hours later, at about 2 am, Cikgu Sani and the band of students returned (from where I still don’t know). Cikgu Sani then asked me if I was ready for my bath. “What bath?” I said…
It was time for me to be initiated into the Silat Kuntau Tekpi family, and I was told that the initiation ceremony involves Cikgu Sani giving me a bath.
Alice in Wonderland…
So I stripped down (in front of about 40 or 50 people), put on my sarong and we headed to the back of the house. I was asked to give myself a quick bath before the ceremony so that I would be wet when the ceremony began. I was shocked at how cold the water was in Cikgu Sani’s bathroom. It comes from a deep well and is the coldest water I have ever felt.
I was shivering – from the cold – when I approached Cikgu Sani. There was a very large bucket of water in front of him. The ceremony began.
He asked me to recite Al Fatiha (the opening chapter of the Qu’ran) with him. He then said a prayer while slicing up and squeezing several limes into the bucket. He then asked me to recite another chapter of the Qu’ran three times out loud while he used his hands to stir the limes into the water. When I was done, he asked me to step outside with him and kneel on the ground. He began to recite another prayer while he slowly picked up the large bucket with both hands.
And then he began to pour the water over my head.
I tried to scream, but I couldn’t. The breath wouldn’t leave my lungs. The water was sooooooo cold!!! I have never felt water this cold in my life. It somehow felt even colder than the water that I felt in his bathroom.
When we were done, Cikgu Sani handed me a towel and hugged me. He welcomed me to the family. As I dried myself off, he explained that by bathing me, he was symbolically becoming my father, since the last time I was likely to have been bathed by a man was when I was an infant and my own father bathed me. It also symbolized a new beginning for me in Silat Kuntau Tekpi.
As I walked back in the house, I saw a small line of shivering wet guys in their sarongs waiting to see Cikgu Sani. It was an initiation assembly line. These were the new students from Port Dickson who came up to Kedah to be initiated. Things were starting to make a little sense now.
By now it was 3 am or so... No one was sleeping. There was nowhere to sleep. There were about 40 guys packed into Cikgu Sani’s front room talking loudly and smoking cigarettes.
I sat down next to Cikgu Sani’s oldest son. If there was ever going to be a Hollywood stereotype for the tough Silat instructor-type, Izhar (his son) would be it. This guy has a longshoreman’s build, a vice-like handshake and steely eyes. He also has a prominent dark birthmark over his right cheek and eye. It’s hard not to stare at it when you first meet him. We had a great and rambling conversation for a couple of hours. It was now 5 am. I was on fumes – out of gas. Izhar looked so disappointed. He wanted to keep talking but he allowed me to go to sleep.
So I found a bare patch on the crowded floor, rolled up a spare set of jeans as a pillow and laid down, covering myself with my damp sarong. The lights were on. People were talking and milling about. Cigarettes were burning. And I fell fast asleep.
At first, I kept waking up every time someone stepped over me, but after about an hour even that didn’t wake me.
The next thing I knew, it was 10:30 am. I woke up to a surreal scene. People were seated all around me eating their breakfast rice out of their bowls with their hands. I was on the floor fast asleep in the middle of a circle of people seated on the ground eating breakfast. How long had they been there? As I woke, there was a lot of laughter and jokes about my snoring, but other than that, it seemed completely normal to everyone to have someone fast asleep in the middle of their breakfast circle.
Alice in Wonderland!
After I washed up, I joined Cikgu Sani and his family at their breakfast table for a lovely breakfast. By now, it was 11 am, and Cikgu Sani had another wedding concert to perform. He laughed and promised me that I wouldn’t have to perform Silat at this wedding!
So my travel partners and I packed our things, said goodbye to the other students and Cikgu Sani’s family and followed Cikgu Sani to the wedding concert.
We all sat down and watched him and his band play. I was videotaping.
And at that very moment, somewhere off of the coast of Sumatra, only a couple of hundred miles away, there was something happening that went unnoticed by all of us...
We watched Cikgu Sani and his band play for about 40 or so minutes. By then, it was 1 pm and we had to hit the road. We said goodbye to Cikgu Sani and went on our way.
We headed south from Kedah toward the town of Kuala Kangsar to meet with a famous keris maker. I wanted to order several custom blades from him. We spent about three hours with him as he explained the keris making process to us. This is the man who makes the keris for four of the nine Malaysian royal families. I placed my order with him and we left Kuala Kangsar and headed toward Kuala Lumpur.
As we hit the traffic jam of Christmas weekend travelers returning home, we turned on the car radio.
There was an urgent news story, something about a tsunami…